The Soul Story of Memer’s Buttermilk Pie
Sweet As Pie!
Memer’s Buttermilk Pie isn’t just a sweet ending to some Soulman’s Bar-B-Que; it’s a delicious slice of family history, a testament to resourcefulness, and a heartwarming link to southern Texas tradition. More than just a recipe passed down through generations, this creamy, subtly sweet cinnamon pie carries within it the echoes of early settlers, the ingenuity of Texan entrepreneurs, and the unwavering love of a mother for her family.
Its origins stretch back across the Atlantic, whispering tales of English kitchens before making its way to the American South with settlers. But it’s in the heart of Texas that buttermilk, the pie’s namesake and soul, truly took root. The vast Texas landscape, with its robust dairy industry, played a pivotal role in popularizing this humble ingredient.
Interestingly, the story of buttermilk in Texas is intertwined with that of Gail Borden, a name synonymous with condensed milk. While his invention revolutionized food preservation, Borden also recognized the abundance of buttermilk in the Lone Star State and founded Borden’s Buttermilk, actively seeking to establish it as a kitchen staple.
The post-World War II era, the late 1940s and 1950s, saw a surge in buttermilk production, making it an affordable and readily available ingredient. Recognizing th
is surplus, Borden’s Dairy embarked on a mission to cultivate demand by creating and promoting recipes that highlighted buttermilk’s versatility. One such recipe, Borden’s Buttermilk Pie, emerged as a beacon of simple sweetness, a dessert accessible even to those with limited means.
This unassuming pie became affectionately known as a “desperation pie,” a testament to the resourcefulness of mothers who, facing financial constraints, sought to create comforting and delicious treats for their families. Borden’s recipe struck a chord, quickly becoming a cherished dessert on countless Texas dinner tables. It was a symbol of love and care, a way to bring joy even when resources were scarce.
Like many good Southern mothers in the 1920s, Mary Alice’s mother embraced this recipe. During the Great Depression, crafting Buttermilk pie became one of the few affordable sweet options for Mary Alice, who would later be affectionately known as “Memer.” Mary Alice inherited more than a recipe, but the cherished practice of baking Buttermilk Pie, a tradition she lovingly continued for her own children. Over time, the recipe subtly evolved, shaped by her own culinary instincts and preferences, adding her unique touch to this classic dessert. Mary Alice Hallett, the matriarch and beloved mother of Soulman’s founder Don Hallett, regularly graced her family – children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren alike – with the comforting aroma and taste of her Buttermilk Pie. It was a constant, a sweet thread woven through family gatherings and everyday moments. As was the usual way, the recipes were shared by word of mouth. But somewhere along the line, a mix-up with the ingredients—maybe a happy accident or a clever twist—led to the creation of the truly unique Hallett family pie, quite different from the original Borden’s recipe.
Just over a decade after Soulman’s BBQ first opened its doors, a piece of this cherished family tradition found its way onto the menu. Memer’s Buttermilk Pie, as it was lovingly named, has remained a favored dessert offering a sweet finish to the smoky, savory flavors of Soulman’s renowned barbecue.
Much like the rich, culture of barbecue is deeply intertwined with Texas food history, so too is the story of the Buttermilk Pie. What began as a humble family treat, born out of necessity and love, has become an integral part of Texas culinary tradition. At Soulman’s Bar-B-Que, Memer’s Buttermilk Pie stands as a sweet legacy, a reminder of the resourcefulness of the past and the enduring power of family tradition and love served one slice at a time.